Home Forums First Ascents West Cape Howe – 3 new routes

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    Remi
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    STYX GULLY:

    On the cross 50m 17
    i. 20m: start at the blocky corner which leads to a right trending wide flake, the obvious line located in between Identified Flying Stitch Plate and Three’s a Crowd at the Styx Gully South Side. Good climbing but flaky crust makes the first 20m interesting until the large stepped ledge is reached. Big cams up to #5 recommended. Extend this pitch another 15m if rock is not sound enough…
    ii. 30m: Up the chossy corner to the top being careful not to break and drop anything down.
    FA: 26/01/2014 Remi Vignals, Delphine Chabanne

    PYRAMID

    The next 2 routes are on the left hand side of the main face of the Pyramid. Only accessible at very calm sea.

    Off My Cheops 30m 16
    Located on the LHS of the pyramid. From the main ledge, traverse 1m left without getting inside the groovy chimney and continue up the major wide crack system. Finish Up on the arête.
    FA: 22/02/2014 David Tickler, Remi Vignals

    Tura Stone 30m 19*
    Up the twin cracks to the rectangular stone at 7m, and continue up the cracks without using the left chimney and staying on the face to the top of the pyramid.
    FA: 22/02/2014 Remi Vignals, David Tickler

    Also FYI and IMHO:
    Mistaken Identity is max grade 19 (definitely not 22)
    Take The Plunge however is really stiff according to most people who have been on it. Grade 20 is probably more accurate.
    I have graded “Off My Cheops” and “Tura Stone” accordingly.

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