rating on Quickie at Statham’s??

Home Forum Climbing Talk rating on Quickie at Statham’s??

This topic contains 3 replies, has 1 voice, and was last updated by  Diane 14 years, 1 month ago.

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  • #1604

    Diane

    Hi all (and especially Ross Weiter cos I think you are responsible for ‘Quickie’!) Went out to Statham’s on Saturday and after warming up on Morning Glory and Kid Rock we decided to have a go at the new ‘Quickie’ which is apparently only a 16. Hmm. This climb feels a heck of a lot harder than MG and KR and I had to wimp out and use Hipster Crack . . . and even on toprope we couldn’t make the moves! Unless you’re supposed to use Hipster Crack or head out to the jugs on the right, but that’s not what the topo shows . . . .

    Anyone else find this climb more difficult than its 16 rating? Ross, care to justify yourself?? 🙂

    Hope everyone managed to get outside onto real rock Saturday, glorious weather!

    #1605

    Pei

    I was there the other day too and tried it for the first time (though on toprope – got Jin to lead it!). I think it was a little thin for 16 but then I haven’t climbed outdoors much so can’t really tell! Plus my dodgy ankle couldn’t have helped… Anyway I also really like the other new route, I think its called Twenty Easy Steps, really nice! Anyway big thanks to all those who put the time and effort into putting up these new routes!

    #1606

    Ross

    Diane – you don’t use the crack to L. The climb is up the face but a straight vertical line up is NOT the easiest way to do it, try traversing a bit. I think it is no harder that any 16 slab(ish) climb around Perth (Darlington, Cuthbert, Wungong)according to the punters who did the FA with me. Beta – from start go 1m right grabbing the faint ramp, so you are just R of the first bolt. Grab high hold above overlap with R hand, traverse back L and up over top of the first bolt and stand on nice large edge. Clip bolt 2 and continue up L. The rock has reasonable friction, just try different things. It’s a technical climb and little power is required. Kid Rock is bit more of a gym climb: big holds, a bit of power at top, differnt kettle of fish. Apples and pears, really.

    #1607

    Diane

    Thank you much for the beta Ross! I’ll take that next time I head out there, and will also bring my ‘slab master’ climbing partner as I know he’ll love the route!

    Thanks also for your work putting up these new climbs for us punters and bumblies to play on, your efforts are much appreciated.

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