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Safer Cliffs Western Australia
This the new contact email for Safer Cliffs WA
westernaustralia@safercliffs.org
Re-bolted routes will be compiled on a database page, that will be hosted through Chockstone.
This will hopefully be up and running soon and then the hard work begins!
Please we need your donations!for info contact us on the above address:)
Sorry- posted in Margaret River section by mistake…:)
Don’t want to start a heated debate, but someone has to initiate some talk.
What are peoples views on replacing expansions w/hangers or carrots/glued machines w/ fixed hangers with camoflaged rings?.
The area that i have in mind is Willyabrup, where the above combos have signs of corrosion (agreed, some more than others), so to replace with the same or instal, stainless camoflaged rings that will last longer in the seacliff environment?.
In my opinion if there is already a hanger, it is appropriate to replace with a ringbolt. I could be wrong, but it seems that if you are going to go to the trouble of replacing a bolt, then it should be replaced with the best quality equipment available. But in the same breath, i also believe that it is important to maintain the character of the route(with-in reason).
Some may say that the visual impact is the main reason for not wanting rings!. A properly camoflaged and recessed ringbolt is no more obtrusive than a rusted fixed hanger and is definately a better choice in the sea environment (my opinion only :). I have a meeting with CALM regarding this issue on friday and would value any suggestions and opinions.
Again i would like to stress that this is NOT ABOUT RETROBOLTING(thats the last time i will say this). But i recently read a quote from Mike Law saying that. Which i believe is food for thought
Don’t “cannonize” the old styles of bolting,most of the style comes from a mix of laziness, poverty, and ignorance.
I believe this quote is not aimed towards RETROBOLTING, but at having a long hard look at what equipment has been used and as a “community” deciding the way forward!.
George
I reckon piss off all carrots and put up camo rings or hangers, but everyone probably knows my opinion. Realistically the FA needs to approve and that is where this whole battle will be very interesting
Hey George,
Sounds reasonable to me. I suppose some will say it makes the climb easier cos you dont have to fish around in your chalk bag for a plate etc. (for carrots/hex heads).
Cheers
The replacement i was talking about was fixed hangers for rings, in a sea environment!(period), where there are carrots, they will be replaced with GIMB, so there will be no character loss and definately no retro-bolting!. The only time this might come into play is when a carrot/GIMB has been placed in a bad position or on unappropriate ground (overhangs, hard to clip w/ serious ground fall potetial), even after FA permission and community support, it still may be deemed unneccessary.
So lets make sure we are on the same wave length!:).
This might be a bit to the right of the subject.
But what about situations where the 1st and 2nd bolts are placed such that not making the 2nd clip will probably result in a ground fall? A number of these situations don’t get mentioned in guides when really they are just as dangerous as any R graded climb. It seems that it comes about from either lack of resources (no bolts left, etc) or lack of consideration for safety. Or maybe the guise “we just wanted to make it scarier” is the reason.
Anyway, should these situations get considered or perhaps just given the R grade? I guess it once again comes back the whole FA permission versus safety thing. I’m not saying go retrobolt to make it safe. That would wipe out the need for R’s and X’s and ruin the original intention of the FA. Just that maybe when putting up a new climb the bolter takes this into account and any existing climbs with this kind of start should be given recognition as a potentially dangerous climb.
SCWA would like to thank Elliot for his donation of 2 60m static ropes and 7 steal carabiners, this generous contribution is much appreciated and will definately be put to good use!.
Please!, keep the donations coming.
We really need people to start informing us of potential re-bolting candidates. I can’t help getting the feeling that people are sick of debating bolting and can’t be bothered. So am I and thats why i trying to do something about it!. PLease speak up,as this has become a reality and your input is valued.:)
Sorry, haven’t followed this thread for a week or two. A wikipage is a bit like forums like these, but generally with less formalities, and usually a bit more free-reign. The reason I was thinking wiki would be that would require much less support than a forum such as this, and would be used just for quick notes on bad bolts.
HI all,
Firstly I would like to thank all those who came along to the re-bolting meeting and gave their time to discuss this worthwhile initiative.
Special thanks to Di for rounding people up and organising the meeting room. 🙂
Collection tins have now been installed in:
Mainpeak(perth city)
Mountain Designs(perth city)
Paddy Pallin(perth city)
So please drop some cash in the tins and help support this beast!. PLenty of you have showed your interest in helping out!, well here is your chance.
We have a specific bank account setup for donation and all withdrawalls will be recorded. If that is the easiest way for you to donate then contact us on: westernaustralia@safercliffs.org
and we can give you the account details!.
If giving it in person is easiest, then let us know and we can organise to meet with you i.e at the gym, out at the crag or where ever.
So now we have put in place a way of donating and have some really keen volunteers to do the work, it is time for all of you that climb to help out.
Encourage people that don’t read these forums that this is a worthwhile thing and that we need their help.
I have started to compile a database of potential routes to be re-equipped, but there really hasn’t been much joy in the Perth area.
cheers
George
Any chance of a tin at the hangout? i’m there all the time.
Hi John-
I’m heading to Hangout tonight with a tin- so it will be there very soon assuming the owner/manager are happy for us to have it there.
Hopefully see you there sometime soon!
Howdy,
I’ve got a few old harnesses that you can have, they are old and where going in the bin but should be OK for hanging on a rope with. (I’d happily use it for that)
Cheers
Ciao SFWA, here is a nomination for climb that needs rebolting: “Short Circuit” in Statham’s. The original gear (pitons and carrots) mostly fell out long ago and this is a great pumpy fun thing which many people toprope for warmup. Someone should do the alt. direct finish, instead of stepping R into groove near top. No carrots or expansion please, this rock is blast shattered and needs long glued in bolts.
Also: all the pitons at Churchman’s should be replaced with something that does not break or fall out when rusted. I see no need for any FA permissions here, as it is just replacement.
Cheers Roo,
We have emailed you from the westernaustralia@safercliffs.org address.
Thanks for the support:)
Hi Everyone,
Just a quick note on more donations that we have received:
Mainpeak Donation:
1 x 60m Black Marlow static
2 x 10m Bluewater static strops
30m of tube tape
2 x Rope protectors
1 x cheque for $250
We would like to send out a big thankyou to John Mustard and Richard Lushey for this very generous contribution and also thsnk them for their ongoing support of WA climbing.
The tins have a little bit of cash in them, so please remember this is a good cause and in the future these fund can get directed too a crag near you.
Cheers
SCWA Crew
The address for the SCWA re-bolted routes database is:
http://www.chockstone.org/Rebolting/RoutesWA.asp
Cheers 🙂
Hi all!
After a busy couple of months, we are back in the saddle and hoping to get some more work done.
We emptied the donation tins the other day to discover a grand total of $44.65, which is a little dissapointing to say the least!!. Considering we received a $1000 donation from a group of people that aren’t even living in the country permanently!.
To all of you that have donated already, in either money or time we thank you. To those of you that haven’t donated and have been appreciating the work that has happened so far, IT’S TIME TO COUGH UP!!!. The work will not continue without your support and that would be a shame.
We have already spent plenty of our own cash on this beast, with a drill costing $1000 alone. So when you spend that $5 on a big mac meal deal and then get the inevitable heart burn that follows, think about how easy it would be to put a fiva in the tins(with a much more forfilling after taste:).
PLease we need your help to keep the work happening
Cheers
SCWA crew
Great work you guys are doing, and I’ve promised myself I’ll contribute as soon as I see a collection tin. Maybe I’m blind – where are they?
There are tins located in the following places:
Mainpeak perth
Mountain Design perth
The hangout
Paddy pallin did have one, but we have removed it as they aren’t really keen to support the fund.
We would still like to get tins in:
Urban Ascent
The Rockface
Mainpeak Cottesloe & Osborne Park
Mountain designs- well more stores!
a collection tin has been placed in Urban Ascent, so please drop some cash to keep the work happening.
Donations:
SCWA has received a generous donation of $100 from Scott Kerenyi. Thanks heaps Scott, it’s great too see somebody putting their money where their mouths is!. Glad you were able to enjoy some newly re-bolted classics.
Donations:
A very Generous donation of $200 has been made by Jon Gregg. Thanks heaps Jon, for your ongoing contributions to WA climbing.
Come on folks, this contribution has come from somebody who has already contibuted greatly….Where is the love?
Donations:
We have received another generous donation of $100 from Steve Holland. Cheers Mate!, we will definately put this to good use.
Donations:
Yet another generous donation of $100 has been made by Owen Davis. Thanks heaps Owen, it’s great to see the support role in.
Cheers
SCWA Crew
Just before a recent trip to SW Oz, I received word from George that the donations had stopped and the kitty was bare (which explained the relative lack of rebolting work done in the past 12 months).
I’ve sent another $1,000 on behalf of Swiss based climbers but I think the local climbing community should be made aware that this small amount won’t go very far, hence the post.
Your local rebolters need a continual flow of moderate amounts of cash so seek them out and give them some cold hard cash once a year. To keep them a little bit honest, post the amount you’ve donated and to whom such that its in the public domain.
