2011 Mt Frankland Trip Report
Posted on November 24, 2011 by Kylie to News, Trip Reports | 11 Comments
As remembered by Kylie West (accuracy not guaranteed)……
The trip to the beautiful Mt Frankland National Park was held over the usual Queen’s birthday long weekend, although with a slight twist as thanks to CHOGM, the day off was Friday instead of the Monday.
As a virgin trip coordinator, I found it a bit nerve-wracking making sure I got all the right information sent out and that people were suitably encouraged and excited by the thought of coming along. Unfortunately, a real crisis emerged that took my mind off this – the goddamn weather.
One minute it looked promising, the next it looked truly horrific and there were plenty of in-between forecasts. I harangued a group of people who I knew would be far more capable of making a rational decision about the weather and the future of the trip than me (I call it delegating) and eventually the final call was made to go ahead with the official CAWA trip.
As it turned out, the weather could not have been more perfect. Which I, of course, took full responsibility for.
SOME GENERAL STATISTICS
The final participant tally was 20, and of these, 19 remembered to bring their shoes and harnesses. Of the 20 people there, 19 chose to cook their own dinner on Saturday night, with one person electing to “share”. Out of 20 climbers, 19 wore sensible, respectable climbing attire.
The usual lovely mix of nationalities was present, with the group comprising of Rugby World Cup Champions (that would be me) and Rugby World Cup losers (that would be everyone else). It was notable that no French climbers were present……
BACK TO THE CLIMBING
A bunch of people had braved the Thursday afternoon mass exodus from Perth and were rewarded for their effort by a good day on Friday. By the time the rest of us turned up on Friday afternoon or thereabouts, we’d missed a perfect slab-climbing day. But no mind, because Saturday and Sunday were also glorious and as far as I could tell, everyone was getting on the rock.
There was the usual line-up at routes like Free Burma (160m, 16***), Dream Weaver (95m, 16***) and Purring Pussies (36m, 15**) to access the ledge to continue on with pitches two and three for many routes. For some, it was good ground for learning multi-pitch climbing as well as leading on slab. For poor Deb, it was a steep learning curve in a) using bolt plates for the first time and b) experiencing the awful run-out traverse on Lambs to the Slaughter (50m, 14*). Handled superbly I should point out, with plenty of encouragement from her belayer Martin, who really didn’t want to second it! Deb’s cool composure was quite a contrast to watching a former CAWA member a few years ago leading the same route, while screaming at the top of her lungs over and over “WHERE’S THE NEXT F*CKING BOLT??!!!”
At the start of the day, the serious business of identifying routes and potential climbing partners.
Brian, Pauline and Steve at the top of Free Burma (Steve, about to learn the hard way it's best to leave your helmet on for the summit shot)
Richard and I attempted Stoned Alone (80m, 18**). We got the first pitch no problem (a stiff 14) but then found ourselves sitting in a puddle with the rest of the route above us dripping wet. So, after a weird traverse we continued up the rest of Dream Weaver in front of Kelly and Gesa. Kelly had a lovely time leading the first pitch of Dream Weaver, she was really pleased to be offered the lead and jumped at the chance, didn’t you Kel?
Kelly enthusiastically steaming up the first pitch of Dream Weaver
Dena and Ross went for gold and got many ticks over the weekend, including Hannibal (20), Burmese Tiger (38m, 17*) and Three Sheep Twice a Day (95m, 18**) amongst others. Eric and Craig had a fine outing on Where Eagles Dare (85m, 18*), although Eric’s attempt to avoid getting mud on his shoes evenutally ended in tears.
Ross on belay and Dena seconding
Francis had fallen in love with slab climbing and continued let everyone know how much he was enjoying it, particularly when he and Mario were on Purveyors of Matters Large and Small for the Masses (77m, 18*). Discovering that he had to belay off a single bolt at 45m due to an omission in the route description (just some minor detail of needing two small cams to set up belay at 47m), Mario heard Francis shout from the ground “sorry mate, I’ve lost interest”. Being the self-described sociable and easy-going fellow that he is, Mario took this news quite well.
One of the quotes of the weekend was from Richard, having just sweat bullets on the first pitch of Saracen – “I haven’t had that much fun since I drove my car into the back of a truck”.
Richard, having not quite as much fun as when he crashed his car
Other notable accents were Brian and Gesa doing Butter Fingers (35m, 20***) from the terrace and Steve, Wally and Jo doing Sheep Two (30m, 15). Hamish was spotted cruising up Granitarium (85m, 17*) with Lloyd and I had a great time with Mario and Francis (although I felt a bit like the third wheel haha) on Where Eagles Dare.
Mario and Francis abseiling off Where Eagles Dare.
I also climbed with Gesa, who led Purring Pussies and then we finished the top two pitches of Free Burma. I somehow managed to ram four pieces of gear between the first and second bolts on the second pitch. I felt rather clever and informed Brian that yes, they were all bomber. He asked “how do you know? Did you fall on any of them?” Smart arse.
Kylie leading second pitch of Free Burma (16). You can see from here how bomber my gear placements are.....
The evenings were cold but clear and luckily both mossies and march flies were tolerable. The same could not be said for the bull-ants (or whatever those nasty big red ones are called), with Martin and Richard becoming victims of an attack. Martin looked like he was Morris dancing and Richard just opted to tear his trousers off. Different solutions to a painful problem, but equally disturbing!
Kelly, about to tuck into a typical Canadian breakfast....
Considering my initial angst, the weather came up trumps and it was a perfect weekend. The Sunday afternoon saw the gang sprawled out on the gravel of the car park enjoying a picnic, the bums. What would the tourists think?!
The gang enjoying a picnic in the (car) park Sunday afternoon
Good food (scabbed or otherwise), good company and good climbing. What more can you ask for?
A final quote from the irrepressible Richard on the Sunday – “How much would one need to pay for such a perfect day?” The answer is $107.10, which includes camp fees and vehicle depreciation.
People laughed, but check out the hot chicks Wally pulled in these pants (note that Jo is nowhere to be seen!)
Adventure Out Rock Climbing Adventure – Discount for CAWA Members
Posted on November 22, 2011 by Tony to News | No Comments
Adventure Out are offering a discount on their regular pricing for their Rock Climbing Adventure day at Stathams Quarry on Sunday 27th November 2011, 8am-3pm.
Regular prices are $130 per person. For CAWA Members, and for this event only, AO are offering 2 people for $120 – That’s $60 each !!
When you register, please provide your Name and CAWA Membership number to qualify…
Check out all the details at http://adventureout.com.au/adventure-out-programs/outdoor-adventures/rock-climbing
Contact AO at 94723919.
Two For The Price Of One
Rock Climbing Adventure
Sunday 27th November 2011
Stathams Quarry – Gooseberry Hill
8am-3pm
That’s just $130 for TWO PEOPLE for a full day activity, no experience required, morning tea provided, just 30min from Perth!
Click here for more details.
Places are strictly limited so be quick to snap up this awesome deal.
9472 3919 or aout@adventureout.com.au
NEW – New Zealand Alpine Club Talk – 5 Dec 2011
Posted on November 21, 2011 by Tony to News | No Comments
The New Zealand Alpine Club are hosting a talk on Alpine Climbing on Monday 5th December 2011 at Rosie’s O’Grady at 7:00 for 7:30pm.
CAWA members and other interested “cold” climbers are welcome to attend to hear more. This is an oppotunity to catch up with friends, make new contacts or get some pointers on how to start in the Alpine world.
What: Guest speaker Ross Weiter (and also hopefully Neil Gledhill) on getting into alpine climbing with examples from their trip to the Swiss and French Alps
Where: Rosie O’Grady’s, 205 James St (Cnr Milligan, opp. Russell Sq.), Northbridge, WA
When: 7:30pm Mon 5th December. (7:00pm for food/drinks)
Preview: The guest speaker is CAWA life member and Austrian Alpine Club member Ross Weiter. Ross has been climbing for 17 years in most styles including trad, sport, aid and alpine and has put up over 100 new climbs in WA and elsewhere. Having grown up as a keen cross country skier in the Czech Republic, he then found himself in snowless Australia, but kept dreaming about big cold hills. In mid-90s he climbed two 6000m peaks in the Andes, one of them solo. He recently he made two trips to climb some of the “grand routes” in the Alps, including the Mont Blanc traverse, Matterhorn Hornli Ridge, Jungfrau SE Ridge, Dufourspitze traverse, Monch, Kleiner Grossglockner and an attempt on the Eiger via the Mittelegi Integrale. This presentation will not be so much geared on what Ross has done but rather on “easy” summer alpine climbing in general: how to get into it, what gear to take, when to go, how to get around, insurance options….in other words the sort of information that is not really available on the internet. If you are thinking about organising your own alpine holiday, or meeting other like-minded people you will find this talk very useful. This is not about extreme deeds, but rather about having fun in the mountains for normal mortals! Also, Neil Gledhill with plenty of alpine and other climbing experience of his own may also present his perspective, if he can be convinced…NZAC working on that one!
REEL ROCK SHOW Perth – CAWA member discount
Posted on November 02, 2011 by Tony to News | No Comments
The film itself will be held at ECU MT Lawley on the 28th of November at 7pm. It’s a collection of some of the best things that are happening in climbing around the world right now, made by Big Up Productions and Sender Films (the guys that did the First Ascent series for National Geographic).
Tickets are normally $10 pp but CAWA members can grab them presale at Rockface for $8. Tickets will be full price at the door if they don’t sell out. Rockface has also agreed to give away some sweet gear and memberships as door prizes. For tickets contact Rockface Climbing Gym 08 9328 5998
CAWA AGM – Wednesday 15 February 2012
Posted on October 19, 2011 by Tony to News | No Comments
Hi Everyone
The CAWA Annual General Meeting will take place upstairs at Rosie O’Grady’s pub, James Street, Northbridge on Wednesday 15 February 2012.
I know it’s still a long way off, but many of us will be peeling off to ski in Europe or surf at Bell’s or just getaway with the family over the Xmas break and into January. So please, put a placeholder in your diary for the 15 February 2012, a day after Valentine’s Day…
We will update the link with more details, agenda items, goodies and interesting things to liven up the AGM for 2012. You will not be disappointed for attending….
The AGM is open to all CAWA members and an email invitation will go in January. As normal, only full members are eligible to vote.
So, make a date with your fellow members and you can expect a seriously good AGM.
Regards,
Tony Brebner
CAWA President
cawa@climberswa.asn.au
www.climberswa.asn.au
CAWA Trip – Mt Frankland
Posted on October 17, 2011 by Kylie to News | No Comments
The next climbing trip is to beautiful Mt Frankland and will be held over the Queen’s birthday long weekend, which this year is now Friday 28th October to Sunday 30th October (we can blame/thank CHOGM for this).
Mt Frankland is located in the Mt Frankland National Park and is about 30km north ofWalpole. It’s quite a drive fromPerth, probably 4.5 hours give or take, but in my opinion it’s well worth it.
The climbing is mainly bolted slab, with many routes up to 3 pitches long, so is good if you’re looking to gain some multi-pitch experience. The routes do tend to be run-out, so people need to be fairly confident leading at the stated grade. It’s a good place for beginners and generally on CAWA trips there will be enough people around to lead the routes.
Most of the routes are bolted, but some require a mix of bolted and natural protection. Bolt plates will be required.
There’s a variety of grades starting from about 16 and up, so there’s literally something for everyone. Slab climbing requires a certain technique (and lots of faith in your shoes) so will be quite an experience if you haven’t done much before. It’s a beautiful bush setting and there are a couple of other spots you can get to after some bushwalking. Or so I’m told, I’ve always been too lazy to investigate…..
Check out the West Australian Rock guidebook if you’d like to suss things out a bit more or there’s some information at Mt Frankland New Climbs or at On-line Guides/Mt Frankland. The camping area we will be using is called Fernhook Falls and it’s a really well set up campground with drop toilets, an undercover kitchen area and a lovely river nearby for smelly climbers to brave at the end of the day (there are no shower facilities).
It does get cold overnight, so pack warm stuff.
To get there from Perth, drive south from Manjimup along South West Highway and then turn left onto Beardmore Road (a gravel road). Fernhook Falls campsite is about 6km in and is sign-posted on your right.
You do need to bring your own food and water but can leave the shovel behind. Having said that, Walpole isn’t that far away (about 35km) if you do need supplies. There are minimal camping fees ($7 per night per person/$5 concession) that can be paid on an honour system and then you attach a tag to your tent to indicate you’ve paid. The rangers come around and check. Keen? Then please email me (kyliew@climberswa.asn.au) the following questionnaire so we can collate numbers and details re car pooling with others who are coming :
· How many in your party intend to come along to the Mt Frankland trip : #
· I have my own vehicle and have seats available for others who do not have transport : Y/N – How many spare seats ?
· These are the names and contact details of my group :
o Name :
oMobileNo :
o Email address :
Please note that CAWA trips are a benefit for members. Non-members who are interested in coming with you can join online now (easiest) or on the first day of the trip.
All participants need to be ‘independent participants’. This means you are responsible for your own safety. Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training. If you are an inexperienced climber then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend. However, as already mentioned, Mt Frankland is a good beginner’s crag as there will be plenty of people to give you a go. And unsolicited advice, of course! If you are a beginner, it might pay to read CAWA Trips for some further information.
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions: kyliew@climberswa.asn.au
Have a good one!
Kylie
CAWA Treasurer/Memberships
WARNING: Car park break-ins
Posted on October 10, 2011 by Kylie to News | No Comments
The CAWA committee has just received an email from some unfortunate climbers who experienced the joy of returning from a day of climbing to find all their cars had been broken into. This happened Sunday just gone at Churchman’s Brook.
It’s one of those things where it’s hard to suggest how to avoid this when you have to park in secluded areas to get to the climbing. An obvious suggestion is to not leave anything of value in your car and to leave the glove box/centre console etc open so it can be seen that there is nothing worth stealing. This, of course, does not mean your window won’t be broken just for the hell of it.
(I myself experienced my car being broken into when I had my entire tape collection in the car – yes, tapes, pre the invention of CD’s – and NOT ONE TAPE was taken! I was most offended. What is wrong with Cat Stevens? They took my ashtray in spite).
More recently, I had my car broken into when I parked at the top of Statham’s Quarry as I had not got the gate code that weekend. I doubt anyone else would be this silly, but just in case, it is worth calling DEC on 9295 2244 to get the gate codes for places like Mountain Quarry and Stathams to avoid this happening to you.
To the victims, thanks for letting us know and we’re sorry you had to go through this.
Kylie
CAWA Treasurer/Memberships
CHANGE OF DATE: Queen’s birthday long weekend trip to Mt Frankland
Posted on August 24, 2011 by Kylie to News | No Comments
The poor Queen is going to have to wait a further three weeks to celebrate her birthday this year in Western Australia. Thanks to CHOGM, the public holiday for HRH’s birthday is now Friday 28th October. As Mt Frankland is a bit of a hike, we’re changing the dates so that the full three days is available for this trip rather than trying to squeeze it into a normal weekend. So, please note that the Mt Frankland climbing trip will now run from Friday 28th – Sunday 30th October 2011. I myself am rather pleased it won’t clash with the AFL grandfinal like it usually does!
Kylie
CAWA Treasurer/Memberships
kyliew@climberswa.asn.au
Radical Reels – CAWA Tickets – SOLD OUT !!
Posted on August 19, 2011 by Tony to Events, News | No Comments
CAWA has block booked 25 tickets for the new 2011 – RADICAL REELS film event on Wednesday 23rd November 2011 at the State Theatre of WA, Northbridge at 7pm. These are discounted tickets at $25each. You need to apply and pay for them on or before 31 August 2011.
If you had been at the Banff Mountain Film Festival in April 2011 at the same venue, you will know the ride that you are in for. This is presented as a more adrenaline fuelled film event, so let’s get on board !!!!
Out of the 20 tickets, 2 tickets will be drawn randomly and will be refunded as the first prize from CAWA ($50 in value !!!)
To book your tickets, email cawa@climberswa.asn.au with your name, CAWA membership number and how many tickets you require. A BSB/Account no will be provided for deposit of the cost at $25ea and on receipt, a confirmation email will be issued. Tickets will be available from CAWA at the venue from 6pm (near the main bar !!!)
CAWA Social Night
Posted on August 13, 2011 by Tony to Social | No Comments
CAWA held its first social event for 2011 at Rosie O’Grady’s in Northbridge on Wednesday 10th August. There was a fantastic turnout which was more than we had anticipated or hoped for. It bears testament to the growing interest in the sport of recreational rock climbing here in Western Australia and the ongoing support of CAWA members.
We were treated to a showcase of presentations, starting with Damien Hall and Nigel Ray, owners of the new City Summit Rock Climbing Centre in Malaga which opens in October 2011. More details will be provided as they come to hand, so keep an eye on the website section relating to gyms.
This was closely followed by Kene “The Captain” Chan, member of the Yosemite Assault 2011 team who discussed at length the effort and skills required to climb big walls. Kene also posed the big questions, in both life and climbing, such as how to poo on a vertical wall some 800ft up.
Last, but by no means least, was a visually spectacular presentation by Kate Swain on her teams climbing trip to France this summer (Sept 2011). France is indeed a mecca of climbing, with areas like Fontainbleau less than an hour from gay Paris. The Verdon Gorge and other areas are also incredible and should be on everyone’s tick list.
Good luck and safe climbing to all of you in your ventures this year.
The CAWA Committee for 2011 was introduced. We tabled our current scheduled events and showcased our planned activities for the rest of this year and into the next. Kylie West provided some data on our membership and financial state (both healthy) and Dave Wauge reminded us of the next Gym Crash on 16 August at the Hangout.
As trip coordinator for the upcoming Eaglestone Rock trip, I plugged hard !!! Friday 2 Sept to Sunday 4 Sept, a 3.5 hour drive from Perth via Merredin brings you to Eaglestone Rock. Check out the CAWA website for more information. You will get good directions from the Perth Rock Climbing Guide book – Page 119.
So from all of us at CAWA, thanks for making it a great evening and we look forward to maintaining the energy and making 2011 an exciting year for CAWA members and climbing in Western Australia.
Climb safe all,
Tony Brebner
CAWA President
tonyb@climberswa.asn.au